Size vs. fit: why they’re not the same and how to choose according to your body type

We've all experienced that frustrating moment: you order a pair of panties in your usual size, and when they arrive, they don't fit at all as you'd hoped. Too tight at the waist, too loose on the hips, or constantly riding up. The problem isn't necessarily with the brand, or even with you. It often comes from a widespread confusion between two distinct concepts: size and cut.

Understanding the difference between these two concepts is one of the simplest, yet most overlooked, keys to finding underwear that truly fits well.

Size is a measurement. Cut is a shape.

Size is a number or a letter: XS, S, M, L, or 36, 38, 40. It corresponds to body measurements, generally waist circumference and hip circumference. It's a useful starting point, but it's not everything.

The cut, on the other hand, refers to the shape of the garment, how it's constructed, where it sits on your body, and what silhouette it creates. Two pairs of panties can be the same size but have completely different cuts: one high-waisted with a high-cut leg on the hip, the other mid-waisted with a covered leg. The result on the body will be totally different, even if you wear the exact same size in both.

That's why choosing your underwear solely based on size, without considering the cut, often leads to disappointment.

The most common cuts, and what they truly offer

High-waisted panties

They rise above the navel, or just below it. This positioning offers natural tummy support and creates a smooth line under high-waisted clothing or fitted dresses. It's a particularly popular cut for its comfort, because it doesn't compress the hips and isn't likely to slip during the day.

For a pear-shaped body, this is often the best-fitting cut, as it visually balances the lower body and avoids a "cut-off" effect at mid-wawaist.

Classic mid-waist panties

This is the most versatile cut. It sits just below the navel and suits most body types. Its slightly covered leg prevents visible lines under fitted pants. It's a safe bet for everyday wear, especially if you're looking for a good balance between coverage and discretion.

Bikini or Brazilian panties

This style sits on the hips, with a lower cut and often a higher-cut leg. It suits straight figures or hourglass body types, where the hips and waist are well-proportioned. However, it can create visible lines under high-waisted pants or thin fabrics if not properly adjusted.

Boy shorts and boxers

These cuts offer more thigh coverage and are particularly suitable for active days, leggings, or women who prefer to avoid any chafing between the legs. They fit well on all body types, with a slight preference for pear or apple shapes, where they offer softer support.

Thongs and tangas

Designed to disappear under clothing, these styles require special attention to sizing. A thong that's too small will compress and leave marks; a thong that's too big will ride up or show. Here, more than anywhere else, precise measurements are essential.

Body type and cut: finding what suits you

There isn't one "right" cut. There are cuts that work better with certain body proportions. Here are some practical tips.

Pear shape (hips wider than shoulders)

High-waisted cuts are often the most flattering and comfortable. They avoid compression at the hips and create a smoother line. Boy shorts can also be a good option.

Apple shape (rounder stomach, narrow hips)

A mid-rise cut with a flexible waistband will be more comfortable than a rigid high-waist. Boxers or boy shorts often offer more comfort in this area. Avoid: panties with overly tight elastic waistbands that dig in or compress the stomach.

Hourglass shape (defined waist, balanced hips and shoulders)

Most cuts work well, provided the garment size closely follows both measurements (waist and hips). This is where the difference between size and cut is most clearly seen: if a brand doesn't offer half sizes or adapted cuts, underwear may fit well in one area and be too tight in another.

Rectangle or straight shape

High-waisted or mid-rise cuts with slightly high-cut side panels can create the illusion of a more defined waist. Styles with lace or a contrasting finish on the leg draw the eye and add a little visual structure.

What measurements don't always tell you

Size charts are useful, but they have their limitations. They are based on averages, and a human body is rarely perfectly average. It's very common to wear a M in one brand and an L in another, or to fall between two sizes depending on the measurement considered.

That's why it's important to always take your measurements in at least two places: waist circumference (at the narrowest point, generally above the navel) and hip circumference (at the widest point, around the buttocks). If the two measurements fall into different sizes, you should generally opt for the larger of the two and choose a cut that fits the hips well.

Research in textile ergonomics confirms that garment comfort depends much more on its adaptation to individual proportions than on the size indicated on the label. A study published in the International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education highlights that standardized sizing systems struggle to cover the morphological diversity of women, which explains why so many consumers struggle to find well-fitting clothes.

Materials also influence how a cut wears

A well-cut style in a poor material can still be uncomfortable. The fabric has an elasticity, weight, and texture that completely change how the cut conforms to the body.

Four-way stretch materials, such as microfiber or certain Lycra blends, adapt well to curves without creating wrinkles or tension. They are ideal for high-waisted or mid-waisted cuts, where the fabric needs to follow both the waist and hips.

Less elastic materials, like stiffer cotton, work better in simpler cuts, like bikinis or boy shorts, where the fit is less precise.

At LICA Wear, attention to materials is an integral part of the design, with the idea that the right fabric in the right cut creates something you eventually completely forget you're wearing.

Cut and outerwear: thinking as a pair

Choosing a cut also means thinking about what you'll wear over it. Leggings require a seamless cut on the buttocks. A straight jersey dress calls for high-waisted panties or boy shorts. Low-rise jeans go better with a low-cut bikini style.

If you want to delve deeper into this topic, our article on invisible underwear explores in detail the best options depending on the type of clothes worn daily.

The idea isn't to change everything in your drawer, but to start associating each outfit with the cut that corresponds to it. Over time, this reflex becomes natural and buying mistakes become increasingly rare.

How to use a size chart effectively

Many women look at size charts without really knowing what to do with them. Here are some practical tips.

Take your measurements in the morning, before eating, with a flexible measuring tape. Note your waist circumference and hip circumference. Compare both with the chart and, if you're between two sizes, opt for the larger one. Then, read the cut description: is it high-waisted, mid-waisted, low-waisted? Is the fabric stretchy in two directions or four directions? This information changes the result a lot.

You can also directly consult our LICA Wear size guide to find the right match for your measurements. It is designed to help navigate between the different cuts offered and avoid unpleasant surprises upon receipt.

FAQ

Should I always choose the larger size if I'm between two sizes?

Generally, yes. For underwear, a slightly larger size will be more comfortable than a too-small size that digs in or compresses. If the material is very stretchy, you can rely on hip measurement as the primary reference.

Does a high-waisted cut suit all body types?

The high-waisted cut suits many body types, but it is particularly advantageous for pear shapes and women looking for tummy comfort. For an apple shape with a rounder stomach, it's better to choose a flexible rather than rigid waistband in this style.

How do I know which cut to choose under leggings?

Under leggings, the priority is to avoid visible seams and lines. Seamless panties, thongs, or smooth microfiber panties are the best options. Boy shorts can also work very well if the fabric is thin and has no visible elastic at the thigh.